Feeding the City
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Abbott, Dina 19
acculturation xiv, 119, 121, 127, 162
Achaya, K. T. 1, 16, 61
Adarkar, Neera 19
Adiga, Aravind 137
Advani, Lal Krishna 141
affirmative action 163–164
Aime, Elena 10
Aime, Marco vii, 148–149
Akola 54
Al Qaeda Jammu 142
Al Qaeda Kashmir 142
Alandi 43–44, 182
Al-Biruni 72
Ambedkar, Bhimrao Ramji 52–53
Ambegaon 54, 110
American Civil War 2–3, 4
Andheri 28, 33, 91, 92, 94, 110, 113, 117, 118
Anglo-Indian food 16
Annapurna 20–21
Annapurna, Mahlia Mandal viii, 20–21
Appadurai, Arjun 30, 134, 144
Arango, Joaquin 56
Armstrong, John 5
Arnone, Angela viii, 177
Aryan peoples 61–62, 133, 187
Audar 14
Augé, Marc 166
Aungier, Gerald 5
Ayurveda 65–68, 78, 83–84
three gunas: sattvic, rajasic, tamasic 66, 83, 136, 190, 192
Babur 141
Bacche, Havji Madhu 12–15, 17, 43, 118
Balakrishnan, Natarajan 98
Barilla viii
Barnard, Alan 156
Barth, Fredrik 130, 139
Bastard, Sebastien viii
Baumann, Gerd 157
Bene Israel 6–7 See also Jews
Béteille, André 131
Bhabha, Homi K. 119, 140
Bhakti 37–39, 46, 59, 62, 183 See also Varkari Sampradaya
Bhimashankar 14, 43, 183
Bhora 5–6, 184 See also Muslims
BJP: Bharatiya Janata Party 48, 135, 141, 183
Boas, Franz 156, 164
Bollywood 10, 27, 178
Bombay / Bambaiya Hindi 10
Bombay / Mumbai
as a global city xiv, 24–25, 27, 30, 85, 126–128, 144, 146, 151, 153–154, 161 See also globalisation, cultural diversity in Bombay / Mumbai
as a business and financial centre 3, 27
Central station 117
Churchgate station 22, 28, 33, 76, 105, 115, 117–118
exports to China 2–3, 4
name-change xiii, 25–26, 140
post-independence reconfiguration 23–24
textile industry in 2–3, 4, 15, 18–19, 22, 23–24, 27–28
urbs prima in Indis 3
Victoria Railway Station/Chattrapati Shivaji Terminus 26, 94, 118
Bombay Presidency 25
Bonacich, Edna 8, 9
Bonte, Pierre 127
Borivali 33, 91
Bourdieu, Pierre 167
Brahmins 38, 39, 46, 49, 59, 63, 68–69, 72, 74, 78, 185
Brown, Patricia 16
Buddha 62
Buddhism 61, 103, 133, 135
Caccamo, Francesca vii, 175
Caillé, Alain 148
Caldwell, Melissa L. 146
Camporesi, Piero 137
Caracchi, Pinuccia vii, 43
Carena, Augusto 89
caste 12, 47–51, 73–74, 186 See also caste associations, dabbawala “caste”, multi-caste conglomerates, varna
and food / eating xiii, xiv, 30, 44, 51, 71–74, 76–77, 78–81
and industrialisation 51–55
caste associations 53, 55, 58–59
Castiglioni, Ida 160
Catherine of Braganza 2
chain migration 56–57
Chandavarkar, Rajnarayan 51, 53
Chandrasekhar, Ramasastry 12
Charles II, King of England 2
Charles, Prince of Wales 88–89
Chaudhuri, Kirti Narayan 3
Christians 6–8, 44, 135
Church of Goa 7–8 See also Christians
CNN-IBN 29
Cologna, Daniele viii
Colombo, Enzo 124, 172
Connerton, Paul 108
Consolaro, Alessandra vii, 177
cookbooks 30, 123
coolies 11–12, 13, 184
Coser, Rose Laub 154
Crèvecoeur, J. Hector St. John de 162
Csordas, Thomas J. 167
Cuche, Denys 166
culinary fusion 17, 76 cultural diversity See also food diversities, melting pot, multiculturalism
conceptual analysis of 155–161, 163
differentialist approach to 157
ethnography of 172–179 See also visual ethnography
in Bombay-Mumbai xiv, 4–11, 16–18, 27, 31, 44, 61, 73–77, 79–81, 84–85, 119, 126–129, 132–144, 151
salad bowl metaphor for 163–164
universalist approach to 157, 161, 163, 164
cultural relativism 156
culture methodological interpretation of 155, 166–172
dabbas xiii, 1, 2, 31, 105–106, 119–120, 184
dabba identification system 101–107
glossary of symbols 103–104
system evolution 105, 106
dabbawalas See also NMTBSCT
competition among 87, 110–111
co-operation between 109–110
code of ethics 13–14, 32, 37, 38, 41, 44, 47, 58, 60, 111, 149–150, 176 See also puja, Varkari Sampradaya
illiteracy among xiv, 14, 32, 35, 41, 58, 101, 107–109
inter-generational ties 15, 32–35, 43, 54, 112, 113–115 See also chain migration
recruitment of 14, 92, 112
shared origins of 14, 44–47, 53–59, 107, 113–114
women as 35, 54, 178
dabbawala “caste” 39, 53–54, 55–59
dabbawala customers
Bombay elite 16–17
mill-workers 15, 18–24
Mumbai middle classes 22, 24–31
dabbawala-customer relationship 14, 31–35, 111–113
Dadar 15, 21, 22, 35, 91, 94, 113, 117–118
Dal Lago, Alessandro 157
Dalits 39, 52–53, 59, 63, 184
Daniélou, Alain 38
Das, N. K. 133
David, Kenneth vii, viii
David, Rebecca vii
De Ponti, Barbara 166
De Saussure, Ferdinand 164
decolonisation 161–162
decosmopolitanism 134–135
Demel, Walter 157
dhabas 15, 75, 185 See also restaurants
dharamshalas 13–14, 43–44, 185
dharma xi, 50, 64, 65, 70, 103, 185
Doniger, Wendy 62
Douglas, Mary 79, 80, 147
Drèze, Jean 77
Dumont, Louis 47–48, 50
Dupront, Alphonse 127
Duranti, Alessandro 81, 152
Durkheim, David Émile 164
Dwyer, Rachel 29
Ehrenreich, Barbara 71
Ekanath 38, 40, 43, 185
Eliade, Mircea 66
Elias, Norbert 136, 138, 170
Emperor Aurangzeb 40, 45
English East India Company 2
enlightenment 156, 157–158, 164
ethnic groups 8–9, 18, 61, 126, 129–132 See also ethnicity
ethnic tensions xiv, 25, 135, 141–143, 153–154, 158–159 See also Hindu-Muslim conflict, racism
ethnicity 25, 81, 129–132, 139–140, 157, 160–161
ethnocentrism 129, 156, 159, 164
Fabietti, Ugo 156
Faeta, Francesco 178, 179
Falzon, Mark-Anthony 17
FEEM: Enrico Mattei Foundation vii
Ferguson, James 160
Ferrozzi, Claudio 97
fieldwork 87, 174–177 See also visual ethnography
interviews 174–176
transcription vii, 176–177
translation vii, viii, 175, 176–177
Fischer, Michael M.J. 81, 139
Fischler, Claude 137
flavour 66–67, 79, 80, 122–123
Flood, Gavin 61, 64
Foglio, Antonio 125
food See also Anglo-Indian food, Ayurveda, caste and food, food diversities in Bombay / Mumbai, food rules, foodscape, home-cooked food, junk food, kaccha food, pakka food, purity and food, street food
as a cosmic principle 60–64, 68
as a gift 147–149
holy practices related to 64–69
hygiene xiii, 16, 31, 136
in Sanskrit literature 20–21 63–64, 65–68
food diversities in Bombay / Mumbai xiv, 13, 15, 17, 30–31, 44, 61, 73–77, 79–81, 84–85, 119, 121–123, 124–129, 137–139, 143–144, 145–146, 150–151, 176
food rules 62, 65–74, 78–81, 138–139, 150
foodscape xv, 144–146, 151 See also Wilk, Richard
Forbes 6 Sigma 98
Foucault, Michel 132
Frazer, James George 136
Freed, Stanley A. 72–73
Gandhi, Indira 20
Gandhi, Mohandas 190
Ganguly–Scrase, Ruchira 29
Garruccio, Roberta viii, 34, 89, 176
gastrosemantics xiv, 60–85, 152–153
Geertz, Clifford 159, 164, 171
Ghatkopar 117
Giglioli, Pier Paolo 172
Girgaon 13, 15, 22, 28
Girni 22–23
Glazer, Nathan 129
globalisation xv, 30, 78, 85, 121–122, 124–125, 126–128, 138, 144, 145, 146, 149, 150–151, 153–154, 173–174
Godbout, Jacques T. xi, 148
Godelier, Maurice 148
Goodenough, Ward 169–170
Goody, Jack 150, 167, 170, 171
Grant Road 12, 15, 23, 91, 113, 117
Grignaffini, Giorgio 128
Gupta, Akhil 160
Halbwachs, Maurice 170
Hannerz, Ulf 156, 168
Hansen, Thomas Blom 46
Harris, Marvin 63
Héritier, Françoise 163
Herzfeld, Michael 33, 177
Hindu-Muslim conflict 26, 27, 45, 72, 133–134, 141–143
Hindus 4–5, 25, 44, 45–46, 63, 135, 185, See also caste, Marathas, BJP: Bharatiya Janata Party, VHP: Vishwa Hindu Parishad
Hindustan Times 29
Hindustani 10
Hindutva ideology 26, 135, 153–154, 186
Hobsbawm, Eric 26
Hochschild, Arlie Russell 71
Hofstede, Geert 89
Hofstede, Gert J. 89
home-cooked food xiii, 14, 22, 30–31, 34, 76–77, 78–79, 80, 83, 84, 97, 111–112, 113, 127–128, 146
Hugo, Graeme 56
Husserl, Edmund 164
Ibrahim, Dawood 141
Inden, Ronald 48
Indian National Council of Applied Economic Research 28–29
industrial unrest 20, 22, 23–24, 28, 52, 94–95
International Commission for the Future of Food and Agriculture 145–146
Izard, Michel 127
Jaffrelot, Christoph 29
Jainism 61, 62, 103, 133 See also Mahavira
Jakobson, Roman 81
Janabai 38–39
Jedhe, Keshavrao 40
Jejori 43, 186
Jews 6–8
Jnanadeva 38–40, 43, 186
junk food 74–75
kaccha food 73, 186
Kakar, Sudhir 54
Kalyan 33, 115, 118
Kandivali 28, 33, 54, 91
Karaka, Dosabhai Framji 5
karma 19, 50, 67, 114, 186
Karve, Irawati 40
Kaul, Shailindra vii
khanawals 19–22
Khare, Ravindra S. 60–61, 64, 152
Khoja 5–6, 187 See also Muslims
King, Niloufer Ichaporia 18
Kingsley, Davis 51
Kouaouci, Ali 56
Krishnamachari, Bose 119
Kroeber, Alfred L. 164
Kshatriya 46, 49, 55, 58, 59, 185, 187
Kulke, Eckehard 5
Kunbis 46, 52, 57–58, 187
Laws of Manu See Manu Smrti
Le Breton, David 84, 120
Le Guérer, Annick 120
Lévi, Sylvain 62
Lévi-Strauss, Claude 81–85, 159
Lévi-Strauss’s culinary triangle 81–85
Longo, Chiara viii
Lower Parel 23, 28
Mahajan, Gurpreet 133
Mahalaxmi / Mahalakshmi 15, 23
Maharashtrian identity 25–26, 40, 45–47, 48, 53, 55, 57–59, 132, 134–135, 140, 144, 188, 190 See also Marathas, Shiv Sena, Shivaji Bhonsle
Malad 28, 35, 91, 92
Mahavira 17, 42, 62, 185
Maifreda, Germano 89, 176–177
Malcolm X 163
Mamo, David 51
manas 62, 188
Manekshaw, Bhicoo J. 18
Manu Smrti 49, 188
Marano, Francesco 178
Marathas 12, 23, 25–26, 40, 45–47, 48–49, 53, 55, 57–59, 91, 132, 134–135, 140, 188 See also Maharashtrian identity
Marathi-speakers See Marathas
Marchi, Armando viii
Marine Line 44, 105, 118
Marriot, McKim 71
Martini, Claudio 146
Masselos, Jim 48, 142
Massey, Douglas S. 56
Mauss, Marcel 147, 148, 167
MAUSS: Mouvement Anti-Utilitariste dans le Sciences Sociales 148
Maval 54, 110
Mayer, Hans 157–158
McGregor, R. S. 182
McGrew, Anthony 173–174
Mead, Margaret 178
Medge, Raghunath vii, 12, 13, 16, 17–18, 22, 25–26, 31, 32–33, 37, 41, 43–45, 54, 55, 58, 76–77, 87–90, 91, 93–94, 96, 105, 108–115, 174
Mehta, Deepa 19
Mehta, Suketu vi
melting pot 17, 161–163
Memmi, Albert 158
Menon, Meena, viii, 19
Merleau-Ponty, Maurice 167
Michaels, Walter Benn 165
middleman minorities 8–9, 16
migration xiv, 2–8, 10–12, 14, 19, 27, 47–48, 54–57, 59, 61, 75–77, 85, 89–91, 113–114, 126–128, 143, 157, 160–162
Minkowski, Eugène 119, 151
Mintz, Sidney W. 122, 129
Montanari, Massimo 126
Morin, Edgar 120
Morris, Morris D. 51–52
Moynihan, Daniel P. 129
Mughal empire 40, 45, 141
Muktabai 38–39, 43
multi-caste conglomerates 53
multiculturalism 160–164, 166 See also cultural diversity
Mumba (goddess) 25–26
Munshi 54
Muslims 5–6, 44, 45, 135, 184 See also Bhora, Khoja, Hindu-Muslim conflict
Muzzarelli, Maria Guiseppina 18
Namadeva 38–40, 189
Nandy, Ashis 134
Navarini, Gianmarco 124
Navi Mumbai 21, 24
Nehru, Jawaharlal 30
Nencioni, Sara Talli 89
NMTBSCT: Nutan Mumbai Tiffin Box Suppliers Charity Trust xiii–xiv, 12–15, 24, 27, 34, 38–39, 41, 43, 47, 53–57, 60, 87–118 See also dabbas, dabba identification system, dabbawalas
area directors 91–92
delivery process 98–101
delivery schedule 100–101
distribution logic 97–98
executive committee 88–90 See also Medge, Raghunath
foundation and development of 12–15, 17–18, 87 See also Bacche, Havji Madhu mukadams 92–94, 112
organisational structure of 87–88, 94–96 “practical management” 107–108
railway network as a mental map xiv, 115–116
use of railways 99, 100–101, 106, 116–118
Nussbaum, Martha C. 159
Orientalism 47, 48
Outcastes See Dalits
pakka food 73–74, 189
Pandharpur 39–43, 90, 189
Parekh, C. S. 12
Parker Bowles, Camilla 89
Parsee kitchens 13, 15, 16–18
Parsees 5, 8, 16–18, 189 See also Parsee kitchens
Pathak, Gauri 58
Pellegrino, Adela 56
Pennacini, Cecilia 178
Petrini, Carlo vii, 121
Piano, Stefano 50–51
Piasere, Leonardo 173
Pike, Kenneth L. 169–170
pilgrimage 39–43, 90 See also dharmshala
Pirenne, Henri 137
Poliakov, Léon 61
Pratt, Mary Louise 169
principle of incorporation 136–137
puja 13, 41, 44, 60, 108, 118, 189 See also dabbawala code of ethics, Varkari Sampradaya
Pune 12, 14, 40, 54, 55, 56–58, 90, 94, 95, 114, 189
Purav, Prema 20
purity 49–50, 70, 129, 132, 135, 140, 144 and food 30, 40, 62–70, 71–73, 74, 79–81, 83–84, 136, 143–144 See also home-cooked food
Purusha-sukta 49, 189
racism 135, 157, 158
Raigar 35
Rajgurunagar 14,54, 55, 90, 94, 190
Ramanujan, Attipat Krishnaswami 5, 152
Ramdas 45
Ranade, Mahdev Govind 46
religious fundamentalism 25, 26, 135, 138, 141–142, 153–154
Remotti, Francesco 144
Research Foundation for Technology, Science and Ecology 146
restaurants 15, 17, 74–77, 78, 123–124, 143
Rigveda 49, 189
Rivera, Annamaria 158
Romantic particularism 156
Roncaglia, Sara 89, 176–177
Ronchi, Veronica 89
Rotilio, Giuseppe 123
Roy, Arundhati 134
RSS: Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh 190
Rushdie, Salman 1, 132, 140
Russell, Robert Vane 58 Russell, Sharman Apt 137
Sabban, Françoise 126
Sabharwal, Gopa 131
Salsano, Alfredo 149
samsara 50, 188, 190
Samyukta Maharashtra 40, 190
Sandhu, Abjijeet vii
Sangamner 54
Sapelli, Giulio vii, 13, 89, 149
Sapir, Edward 164, 169
Sardesai, Govind Sakharam 46
Sassen, Saskia 134
Savarkar, Vinayak Damodar 135, 186
Sayad, Abdelmalek 85
Schein, Edgar H. 89
Scrase, Timothy J. 29
Semi, Giovanni 124
Sen, Amartya 77
Senge, Peter M. 89
Seppilli, Tullio 33, 128
shakti 21, 70
Shanti Nagar 72
Shapiro Anjaria, Jonathan 74
Shapiro, Roy 97
Sheikh, Usman vii, 176
Shiv Sena 25, 26, 46, 134–135, 142, 143, 191
Shiva 21, 38, 39, 63, 118, 184, 186, 191, 192
Shiva, Vandana 77–78, 146
Shivaji Bhonsle 26, 40, 44–47, 48–49, 53, 55, 58, 188
shudra 39, 49, 50, 59, 192
Smith, Brian K. 62
Smith, David 70
Solinas, Giorgio vii, ix–xii
Sorcinelli, Paolo 137
Stark, Oded 56
Steel, Carolyn 138
Strambio, Andrea 89
street-food vendors 20, 74–75, 143
strikes See industrial unrest
Suez Canal 3
Surne, Narayan 80
Taguieff, Pierre-André 157
Talekar, Gangaram vii, 24, 34, 54, 87, 91, 95, 174
Tarozzi, Fiorenza 18
taste See also flavour
a unified cosmology of xv, 150–154
as a cultural construct xv, 76, 84, 119,
123, 124–125, 128–129, 144–145, 146
grammars of 152–153
Taylor, Charles 166
Taylor, J. Edward 56
Tedlock, Dennis 176
Teo, Chung-Piaw 98
Terra Madre vii, 146, 174
Thana 2, 33, 91, 115
Thane 6, 24, 115, 118
Thapar, Romila 61, 135
tiffin See dabba
Tomatis, Federica vii
Torri, Michelguglielmo 16, 61, 92, 133
Tukarama 38–40
Untouchables See Dalits
vaishya 49, 58, 185, 192
Van Binsbergen, Wim M.J. 165, 166
Van der Veer, Peter 29
Van Gennep, Arnold 33
Varkari Sampradaya 32, 37–44, 46, 47, 58, 83, 91, 147, 176, 192 See also
dabbawala code of ethics, puja
Varkari sants 38–41, 45
Varma, Pavan K. 29
Varma, Rashmi 134–135
varna 39, 49–50, 192
“varna leap” 58
vegetarianism 17, 44, 58, 62–63, 72, 74, 76, 143
Vereni, Piero 167
VHP: Vishwa Hindu Parishad 141, 192
Vile Parle 89, 90, 105, 117
Virar 33, 76, 115, 117
visual ethnography 178–179
Wagner, Roy 166
Walker Bynum, Caroline 18
Watson, James L. 146
Weber, Max 50, 164
Wilk, Richard R. 122–123
Wilson, Woodrow 130
Wittgenstein, Ludwig 121
women’s role in food preparation 16–18, 19, 68–71 See also Annapurna Mahila Mandal
Zangwill, Israel 162
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